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Dior’s AW25 show captivated with its dramatic ambience – involving smoke machines, an evolving set and ethereal sheer dresses.
The Paris Fashion Week runway drew inspiration from Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, a timeless story of transformation and fluidity.
The collection, rooted in the novel’s exploration of identity, gender, and the passage of time, infused the runway with an enchanting sense of literary magic, where fashion and storytelling merged.
Much like Woolf’s protagonist, who transcends centuries, genders, and societal boundaries, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s designs blended opulent, gender-fluid silhouettes and intricate detailing.
The show set a dark, moody tone, opening with a close-up of a swing at the centre of the stage which had the words ‘Once Upon a Time’ inscribed onto it, setting the stage for the story to unfold.
“If Spring 2025 was about the playful innocence of Alice in Wonderland, Fall 25/26 leaned into something altogether more gothic, dramatic, dark and sensual,” reflects fashion historian Robert Ossant.
The Dior director reworked some classic Elizabethan silhouettes by injecting interesting twists into each ensemble that came down the runway.
“A key theme a the start of the show was romantic gothicism,” says Ossant. “It was a monochromatic start with intricate lace, moiré silks and corsetry.”
Although the monochromatic colour palette dominated the entire show, there were a few exceptions. “With a narrow palette of mostly black, cream, white with flashes of reds Grazia Chiuri has created a respectable (and likely commercially successful) collection,” adds Ossant.
Many of the models donned dramatic ruffed shirts with high collars and long black coats.
They all had slicked back hair and minimal make up to keep all attention on the delicately crafted clothes.
An abundance of intricately detailed dresses evoked romantic qualities, creating a striking contrast against the dark set design.
“White lace crinoline dresses, cropped at the thigh yet expanding upward toward the neck, modernised a historically rigid silhouette,” reflects Ossant.
Delicate but with a hint of edginess was another a prominent theme.
“Lace and leather combinations played a major role, with biker-style jackets opening up to reveal frothy feminine laces,” says Ossant. “The classic dandy male aesthetic was reimagined with subtle feminine touches – soft tailoring, delicate embellishments and fluid draping.”
Trench coats also made a frequent appearance on the runway.
“The start of the final act evoked the fusion of masculine and feminine styles. Intricately embroidered ribbons, richly woven fabrics and delicate embellishments stood alongside sharp tailoring, trench coats and oversized bags,” reflects Ossant. “The contrast of structure and softness embodied Orlando’s gender duality.”
However, there was one stand-out look.
“With a precision tailored tail coat, oversize starched white gauntlet cuffs, ruffles, corset and wispy taffeta skirt this ensemble is the embodiment of the themes present in the collection,” says Ossant. “A fusion of gender specific individual items perfectly styled to look modern, sophisticated and wearable.
“It manages to evoke earlier looks by Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen perhaps through its quintessential British-inspired silhouette.”
